Filed under: Sherpas>Espresso Makers

I learned something that I think I should have already known: the difference between Sherpas and porters. As we got off the bus to begin our trek, we were introduced to our support team. For 8 trekkers this included, one head guide (Ekraj) two Sherpas (Dawa and Tilak) and 4 porters. The duffel bag for Shirley and me was so heavy that I would have strained to bring it from my car into my apartment (about 40 feet). When I was told that only 4 of our team would be actually carrying luggage, I said "that's impossible". And I really meant it. As it turns out and what I should have known is that the Sherpas are not there to carry luggage, they are mountain guides, not porters. And in fact, the 4 porters proceeded to tie together 2 duffels each and then tie their own bag on top of this package. Then they put a strap around their forehead, hoisted the whole contraption and off they went. Not one of them weighed more than 160 pounds. As it turns out, a porter carrying this load moves at the same pace as one of us trekkers carrying his or her day pack. Its hard to believe unless you see it for yourself.

The Sherpas however were there to guide. Tilak went first to make sure we didn't get lost, that we stopped to rest often and that we stopped at the correct lunch and dinner spots. Dawa brought up the middle and assisted Patsy by carrying her bag. He also carried a birthday cake for 3 days for a surprise birthday party for Patsy on Saint Patrick's Day without putting a single smudge in the frosting. Ekraj brought up the rear to make sure we didn't lose anyone and to keep track of our slowest trekkers.

They were really a great group of guys. Apparently, this is a high paying job and they brought a great enthusiasm to it. They were a pleasure to be around.

Filed under: Buffalos>Don't Stand Behind

Yesterday Shirley got charged by a buffalo. Today we begin the trek. The circle of life.

Gentle readers, fear not if you don’t hear from us. Since the Sherpas are already carrying the espresso maker, the blender (for pina coladas) and a fax machine and for Shirley, a hairdryer, iron, curling iron and manicure set, I thought it wrong to have them carry my laptop too. Especially since there is virtually no chance of an internet connection. We have been lucky to have plumbing and electricity so far. In Kathmandu there is apparently only 14 hours of electricity per day, per area.  People in Kathmandu run their own wires into adjacent areas that they know will have electricity on a different schedule than their own. We haven’t had perforated toilet paper yet. Apparently that invention has not made it to Nepal.

But now we are in Pokhara, a small town with a lake. This is our base camp to start our assault on Annapurna. We ate by the lake yesterday evening. I thought it would be a great idea to get a picture of Shirley with some buffaloes that wandered near. Who knew they charged? Shirley escaped, to the amusement of all nearby, including the owner of the buffaloes.

Filed under: In Kathmandu>Did Kubla Khan

Probably nothing could have prepared me for Kathmandu. I had almost no idea of what it would be like. I guess I kind of thought it was a small town. It ain't! Its a teeming, vibrant, energetic city. Travel in Kathmandu is insane by any standards. I don't think there are highways and all the streets are narrow. Into these narrow streets cows, chickens, monkeys, pedestrians, bicyclists, motorcyclists, cars, buses and trucks all cram themselves and travel both ways (in what should rightfully be one way, single lane roads) with no regard for stop signs (there are none), dividers, sidewalks, traffic lights (there are none...none that work at least) or each other. There are more motorcycles on the road then anything, because those are the only vehicles that can make good progress against this sea of humanity. By law all the motorcycle riders have to wear helmets, but none of the passengers do. And most of the motorcycles have between 1 and 4 passengers. Its not uncommon to see the entire family on one motorcycle. The strangest part is that in this never ending stream of beeping, swerving traffic regular daily chores occur. You can see people doing normal household chores. People live right on the street...or so close that they might as well set their barca-lounger right in traffic. You can peer into their open living rooms. In this insanity of travel I saw a woman bending over a bowl washing her hair. There were women sweeping their front stoop and men fixing their motorcycles. It would be like...and I'm not exaggerating now...brushing your teeth and combing your hair in the middle of 42nd Street and Broadway.

Filed under: Antipodian>Expeditions

In the airport we met our companions for the next 3 weeks. Michael, Jeff and Sue who I went to Fordham with. Shirley and I met two more people from New Hampshire, David and Patsy.  Also we have Lynn and Andie. No obvious rotten apples in the bunch (possibly I'm the rotten apple?).

It is an epic journey just to get there. I think Shirley said that it will be a total of 24 hours of travel. Right now we are working our way through a 9 hour lay-over in Delhi India. I HOPE THIS IS WORTH IT!

I can't wait to see something other than the inside of an airplane or airport. Admittedly, the flight crew on Jet Airways was very interesting. I have never seen guys with turbans walking up and down the aisle passing out drinks. To get up to speed, I watched a very entertaining Bollywood movie, Robot, starring my favorite Bollywood actress, Aishwarya Rai. Pure camp!